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Watch Parts
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How a Watch Works
•
Automatic Watch
Maintenance
•
Water Resistance
•
Scratch Resistance
•
Shock-Proofing
•
Case Materials
•
Warranties
 In addition to their
exterior beauty, watches are also an incredible feat of engineering and
craftsmanship. Many complicated parts must all work in tandem in order
to not only tell time, but perform the myriad other functions that many
of today’s watches perform. This section contains an overview of the
major parts of a watch, as well as an explanation of how watches
operate.
Watch Parts
Watches contain many parts that work together to tell time, as well as
perform other useful functions. These could include a chronograph,
altimeter, alarm, day/date calendar, phases of the moon, slide-rule,
etc. Here are descriptions of the major internal and external parts and
their functions.
External Watch Parts
Crystal
The cover over the watch face is called the crystal. There are three
types of crystals commonly found in watches: Acrylic crystal is an
inexpensive plastic that allows shallow scratches to be buffed out.
Mineral crystal is composed of several elements that are heat-treated
to create an unusual hardness that aids in resisting scratches.
Sapphire crystal is the most expensive and durable, approximately three
times harder than mineral crystals and 20 times harder than acrylic
crystals. A non-reflective coating on some sport styles prevents glare.
Hands
 A watch's hands are the pointing device anchored at the center and
circling around the dial indicating hours, minutes, seconds and any
other special features of the watch. There are many different types of
hands:
• Alpha: A hand that is slightly tapered
• Baton: A narrow hand sometimes referred to as a ‘stick hand’
• Dauphine: A wide, tapered hand with a facet at the center running the
length of the hand
• Skeleton: Cutout hands showing only the frame
• Luminous: Hand made of skeleton form with the opening filled with a
luminous material
Bezel
The surface ring on a watch that surrounds and holds the crystal in
place is called the bezel. A rotating ratchet bezel moves in some sport
watches as part of the timing device. If rotating bezels are
bi-directional (able to move clockwise or counter clockwise), they can
assist in calculations for elapsed times.
Crown
The nodule extending from the watchcase that is used to set the time,
date, etc. is called the crown. Most pull out to set the time. Many
water-resistant watches have crowns that screw down for a better
water-tight seal.
 Dial
The watch face that contains the numerals, indices or surface design is
called the dial. While these parts are usually applied, some may be
printed on. Sub-dials are smaller dials set into the main face of the
watch. These can be used for added functions, such as elapsed times and
dates.
Case (or Watchcase)
The watchcase is the metal housing that contains the internal parts of
a watch. Stainless steel is the most typical metal used, but titanium,
gold, silver and platinum are also used. Less expensive watches are
usually made of brass that has been plated with gold or silver.
Bracelet
A bracelet is the flexible metal band consisting of assembled links,
usually in the same style as the watch case. Detachable links are used
to change the length of the bracelet. Bracelets can be made of
stainless steel, sterling silver, gold, or a combination.
Strap
A strap is simply a watchband made of leather, plastic or fabric.
Internal Watch Parts
 A watch’s main timekeeping mechanism is called its movement. Today’s
watch movements fall into two categories: Automatic mechanical or
quartz. Automatic mechanical movements mark the passage of time by a
series of gear mechanisms. Most automatic movements are wound by the
normal, everyday movement of your wrist, which charges the watch’s
winding reserve. Quartz movements are powered by a battery and do not
stop working once removed from your wrist.
Balance Wheel
The regulating organ of a watch with a mechanical movement that
vibrates on a spiral hairspring is called the balance wheel.
Lengthening or shortening the balance spring makes the balance wheel go
faster or slower to advance or retard the watch. The travel of the
balance wheel from one extreme to the other and back again is called
oscillation.
Gear Train
This series of small gears in both quartz and mechanical movement
watches is responsible for transmitting the power from the battery (in
a quartz watch) or spring (in a mechanical watch) to the escapement,
which distributes the impulses that mark the time.
Escapement
This part of the watch restricts the electrical or mechanical impulses
of the gear train, metering out the passage of time into equal, regular
parts.
Motion Work
The motion work is a series of parts inside a watch that receive power
from the escapement and gear train, which distribute and generate the
watch’s power. The motion work is responsible for actually turning the
watch’s hands.
Mainspring
The mainspring is the energy source responsible for powering the watch
movement (as opposed to a battery in a watch with a quartz crystal
movement). The spring is wound, either manually (using the winding
stem) or automatically, by the motion of the wearer’s wrist. Potential
energy is stored in the coiled spring, then released to the gear train
which transmits the power to the escapement and motion work, which
turns the hands on the watch dial.
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How a Watch Works
Watches essentially tell time by the integration of three main
components: an energy source, a time regulating mechanism and a
display. The energy source can be electronic (as in a battery) or
mechanical (as in a wound spring). A watch’s main timekeeping mechanism
is called its movement. Today’s watches fall into two categories:
Mechanical movements and Quartz movements. Mechanical watches are made
up of about 130 parts that work together to tell time. Automatic
mechanical movements mark the passage of time by a series of gear
mechanisms, and are wound by the movement of your wrist as you wear it.
The gear train then transmits the power to the escapement, which
distributes the impulses, turning the balance wheel. The balance wheel
is the time regulating organ of a mechanical watch, which vibrates on a
spiral hairspring. Lengthening or shortening the balance spring makes
the balance wheel go faster or slower to advance or retard the watch.
The travel of the balance wheel from one extreme to the other and back
again is called oscillation. A series of gears, called the dial train,
then turns the hands on the watch face.
Quartz watches work with a series of electronic components, all fitting
together in a tiny space. Rather than a spring, a quartz watch relies
on a battery for its energy. The battery sends electrical energy to a
quartz crystal, which vibrates at an incredibly high frequency (32,768
times a second), providing highly accurate timekeeping. This energy is
then transmitted via a stepping motor, which transforms the electrical
impulses into mechanical power, turning the gear train, which moves the
hands on the watch face. Today’s watches fall into two categories:
Mechanical movements and Quartz movements. Here’s a breakdown of how
each type of movement works:
 Mechanical (Automatic) Watches
Mechanical watches are made up of about 130 parts that work together to
tell time. Automatic mechanical movements mark the passage of time by a
series of gear mechanisms, and are wound by the movement of your wrist
as you wear it. The gear train then transmits the power to the
escapement, which distributes the impulses, turning the balance wheel.
The balance wheel is the time regulating organ of a mechanical watch,
which vibrates on a spiral hairspring. Lengthening or shortening the
balance spring makes the balance wheel go faster or slower to advance
or retard the watch. The travel of the balance wheel from one extreme
to the other and back again is called oscillation. A series of gears,
called the motion work, then turns the hands on the watch face, or
dial.
Quartz Crystal Watches
Quartz watches work with a series of electronic components, all fitting
together in a tiny space. Rather than a wound spring, a quartz watch
relies on a battery for its energy. The battery sends electrical energy
to a rotor to produce an electrical current. The current passes through
a magnetic coil to a quartz crystal, which vibrates at a very high
frequency (32,768 times a second), providing highly accurate
timekeeping. These impulses are passed through a stepping motor that
turns the electrical energy into the mechanical energy needed to turn
the gear train. The gear train turns the motion work, which actually
moves the hands on the watch dial.
What’s the difference between quartz and mechanical/automatic
movements?
The movement, or inner workings, of the watch are what make up the main
timekeeping mechanism. Most watches have either a quartz movement or a
mechanical movement. The type of movement you choose depends mostly on
one's taste. Mechanical movements are a tribute to the watchmaker's art
and monitor the passage of time by a series of gear mechanisms. When a
mechanical movement does not have to be wound, it is known as an
automatic movement. These self-winding movements are wound by the
movement of your wrist. (No, you don't have to shake it to work! The
normal, everyday movement of the watch on your wrist charges the
winding reserve.) When this type of watch is removed from your wrist,
the movement winds down in 10 to 72 hours, depending on the size of its
winding reserve.
Quartz movements, on the other hand, are powered by a battery and do
not stop working once removed from your wrist. When activated by a
battery or solar power, the thin sliver of crystal very predictably
vibrates at an extremely high frequency (32,768 times per second), thus
providing very accurate timekeeping. The battery in a quartz watch
generally needs to be replaced every 1.5 years.
 What’s the difference between a chronograph and a chronometer?
A chronograph is a name given to a multifunction sport watch with a
stopwatch function. Most have two or three sub-dials, or mini-dials,
for measuring minutes and hours. A chronometer, on the other hand, is a
precision watch that has been rigorously tested by the Control Officile
Suisse de Chronometers (COSC), an official watch testing laboratory in
Switzerland, to keep accurate time in various temperatures and
positions over a 15-day period. The watch must lose no more than five
seconds per day in order to be designated a chronometer.
How long should the battery in my watch last?
Generally, the battery in a quartz watch will need to be replaced every
1.5 years.
What’s a crystal?
The clear cover over the watch face is called the crystal. Three types
of crystals are commonly found in watches: Acrylic crystal is an
inexpensive plastic that allows shallow scratches to be buffed out.
Mineral crystal is composed of several elements that are heat-treated
to create an unusual hardness that aids in resisting scratches.
Sapphire crystal is the most expensive and durable, approximately three
times harder than mineral crystals and 20 times harder than acrylic
crystals. A non-reflective coating on some sport styles prevents glare.
Is it better to get a leather band or a metal one?
 Strap watches may have bands made from a variety of materials,
including leathers, exotic skins and synthetics. In general, it’s best
to avoid fine leathers if you will expose the watch to water or
perspiration from physical activity. Rubber straps are a little more
durable against water and perspiration. Do keep in mind, that if you do
not like a certain strap on a watch, it’s relatively inexpensive and
easy to replace the band with one of many varieties, textures and
colors. Metal bands are called ‘bracelets’, and are available in
various metals, including gold, platinum, stainless steel and titanium.
Some manufacturers have styles that combine two kinds of metals, such
as gold and steel, which are known as two-tone bracelets. The choice is
really a matter of personal taste. Generally speaking, strap watches
are viewed as a more casual fashion statement, although they can be
very attractive and quite costly.
 What’s the best way to care for and clean my watch?
The best way to clean your watch is by using a lint-free cloth and a
toothpick. Use the toothpick to clean out any dirt buildup in the
bracelet or casing of the watch and the cloth to wipe it clean. If it
is water-resistant, give it an occasional cleaning with a mixture of
warm water and a mild soap. If the strap is leather or non-metal, clean
only the case.
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Automatic Watch
Maintenance
 Although automatic mechanical watches do not have batteries, some
easy-to-follow maintenance is necessary for continued and long-lasting
good use. Self-winding automatic watches depend on the movement of the
arm to operate and do require some winding, even if you wear your watch
on a daily basis. If you wear your Automatic watch everyday, it is best
to wind it once, every two weeks to keep the wheels in motion and oil
fluid. Simply wind the crown (the same knob used to adjust the time and
date) until you meet slight resistance. If you do not wear your
Automatic watch everyday, you should try to wind it at least twice a
week to ensure continuous operation, as well as keeping the inside
mechanism in complete running order.
Try to wind your mechanical watch at the same time every day. This is
extremely beneficial for the mechanism. You may want to make it a
routine, winding it every morning when you wake up. Avoid setting the
day and/or date (if your watch has these functions) at night. The
day-date mechanism is activated during the nighttime hours and could be
disrupted if set at this time. And, always avoid wearing your
mechanical watch, if you are playing a sport requiring continuous arm
motion (e.g. tennis, baseball, golf), since continuous arm motion could
damage the movement.
The best way to clean your
watch is by using a lint-free cloth and a toothpick. Use the toothpick
to clean out any dirt buildup in the bracelet or casing of the watch
and the cloth to wipe it clean. If it is water-resistant, give it an
occasional cleaning with a mixture of warm water and a mild soap. If
the strap is leather or non-metal, clean only the case.
Servicing Your Watch
Like any other piece of machinery, a watch must be cleaned, oiled, and
serviced. Every couple of years, you may notice the watch losing time
or running fast—or it may stop working altogether. Just take your watch
to a local watch professional for servicing.
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Water Resistance
 A watch marked as water resistant without a depth indication is
designed to withstand accidental splashes of water only. Do not
submerge such a watch. Higher levels of water resistance are indicated
by increasingly higher acceptable depths, usually indicated in meters.
There are a variety of ways to make a watch water resistant. All such
watches use rubber gaskets or "O" rings to seal the case back. A watch
with a back that screws onto the case provides a higher degree of water
resistance. Some crowns (the "winding stem") actually screw into the
case to further increase water resistance.
Usage Recommendations. The following usage recommendations are
suggested by the Seiko Corporation of America.
• Water-resistant to 30 meters (100 feet). Will withstand splashes of
water or rain but should not be worn while swimming or diving.
• Water-tested to 50 meters (165 feet). Suitable for showering or
swimming in shallow water.
• Water-tested to 100 meters (330 feet). Suitable for swimming and
snorkeling.
• Water-tested to 150 meters (500 feet). Suitable for snorkeling.
• Water-tested to 200 meters (660 feet). Suitable for skin diving.
• Diver's 150 meters (500 feet). Meets ISO standards and is suitable
for scuba diving.
• Diver's 200 meters (660 feet). Meets ISO standards and is suitable
for scuba diving.
Care for a Water
Resistant Watch
 It is not recommended to wear your water resistant watch in a hot
shower, sauna or hot tub. The extreme heat causes the metal parts to
expand at a different rate than the rubber gaskets. This creates small
openings that can allow water droplets to penetrate the watch. Sudden
temperature changes are especially harsh. Take care not to jump into a
cold pool after wearing your watch in the hot tub.
After swimming or diving in salt water, immediately rinse the watch in
a stream of fresh water. If your watch has a rotating bezel, turn the
bezel several times while rinsing it. This will prevent salt buildup
and corrosion of the bezel ring.
Leather straps can be made to be water resistant too. Generally
however, leather straps are more easily damaged by frequent exposure to
water. So if you are going to wear your watch while swimming (think of
buying one with a metal bracelet or a rubber or nylon diver strap).
Always make sure your
watch is dry after it has been exposed to water. By taking a few
minutes and thoroughly drying your watch with a lint-free cloth, you
will prevent rust from forming. This is a key point in ensuring the
long life of your watch.
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Scratch Resistance
 The crystal is the clear covering over the face and hands of the watch.
The material used in making the crystal determines its scratch
resistance.
These types of crystals are generally used in watches:
• An acrylic plastic crystal is the least scratch-resistant, although
shallow scratches can be polished out.
• A mineral crystal is made up of several mineral elements that are
manufactured and treated by heat procedures to create a hardness that
helps in resisting scratches.
• A sapphire crystal is the most durable and scratch-resistant crystal.
It’s approximately 3 times harder than a mineral crystal and 20 times
harder than acrylic plastic crystals.
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Shock-Proofing
Most watches are sturdy enough to protect against normal everyday wear
and tear, including light bumps. If you’re going to be engaging in
intensive athletic activity, you may want a watch that is also
shockproof. G-Shock by Casio makes an extensive line of shockproof
watches.
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 Case Materials
The material your watchcase is made from often determines how durable
and expensive the watch is. The most popular metal used in better
watches is stainless steel. This metal is very durable, resists rusting
and discoloration and is reasonably priced. Precious metals may also be
used. These include 10k gold, 14k gold, 18k gold, sterling silver or
platinum. Recently, titanium—a very strong but lightweight metal—has
become a popular alternative in sports watches. Titanium is stronger,
but lighter than stainless steel.
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Warranties
 A watch warranty will generally cover malfunctions in the watch
movement and does not cover any damage to the crown, case, crystal,
buttons, bracelet, strap or face. The warranty period is usually for 1
to 2 years. Most reputable watch sellers encourage the customer to send
the watch back to the seller for servicing. The watch seller
coordinates the service process, which makes it 'hassle-free' for
customers.
If the warranty has expired, most watch sellers can service the watch
for the customer. The first step is to contact the watch seller. If the
watch seller does not provide service, ask for a reference or check
your local yellow pages under 'watch repair' or 'jeweler.' Most
companies that service watches provide free estimates. When you have
any work performed, be sure to get a warranty on the work in case the
same problem occurs again in a short period of time.
Glossary of Watch Terms
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(source of the article is
the website
www.worldofwatches.com where you can find the best rates for the
best watches) |
